A few weeks ago the University of Arts Berlin and the College of Art Berlin Weißensee hosted their open days. The exhibition was showing the collections and projects of the past year. Seeing the study projects, I had to think about, what Li Edelkoort said in her „Anti-Fashion“ manifesto:
Under Education, Edelkoort argues that students are being trained „to become catwalk designers, highly individual stars and divas, to be discovered by luxury brands.
As a result the fashion world is still working in a 20th-century mode, celebrating the individual, elevating the it-people, developing the exception… in a society hungry for consensus and altruism.This places fashion out of society and de facto makes it old-fashioned.“
In the Materialisation chapter, Edelkoort argues that cost-cutting in both the education system and within fashion houses is threatening the textile industry.
„The first to be sacrificed are knitting and weaving ateliers,“ she says. „As a result the students are no longer instructed in textile creation and basic knowledge about cloth.“
This means that European fibre, yarn and textile industries are threatened with extinction. „Without them the knowledge of spinning, weaving, finishing and printing will be lost,“ she warns.
I actually saw, that creativity was exploding without necessarily succeeding in making a well crafted garment. However I also saw well made, beautifully worked out garments.
And isn’t the university the place and time to be crazy and creative anyway? Or do we thereby loose the skill to create well made, high quality, durable clothing?
Many of the student works are well made, with a close eye towards detail and craftsmanship. Plus more and more students are searching for more sustainable ways into the future in a very creative and innovative way. I think, if fast fashion and budget cutting is actually killing fashion and the craftsmanship, the problem is not primarily lying within the educational system, but in the industry.
Quote source: http://www.dezeen.com/2015/03/02/li-edelkoort-manifesto-anti-fashion-obsolete/